Friday, January 29, 2010

Language Gaps

While the Welsh speak English (my father would have disagreed that anyone over here speaks the same language he did), there are still a few times where I find gaps in the language. At times, these gaps can be rather jarring.

The first major gap that I found is this word "Cheers." Lots of people use the same term in the states, but usually just to end a letter, or in this modern day, an email.

Here, cheers seems to be used for any number of reasons:
1) To say goodbye: "We'll I got to go now." "Alright then. Cheers."
2) To signal the end of a transaction: "That is six pound, ninety change. Cheers."
3) To express appreciation: "Hold the door! Cheers!"
And so on.

The other day, as I was walking from the post office to the library, I saw an undergraduate struggling to get home with a surprising amount of beer. It was surprising for a few reasons. First, it was Tuesday, noon. Secondly, he was looking to get from the grocery store to his dorm room carrying one thirty-can case and two shrink wrapped fifteen-can cases. 60 cans of beer. On a tuesday. At noon. The Welsh I have talked to consider the American legal drinking age draconian, but I am fairly sure few of my fraternity brothers would have passed college had they been allowed to openly purchase 60 cans of beer on any given Tuesday morning.

At any rate, I hate to see people struggling, so I asked if he needed help. "Could you, mate? Cheers, man," he said, and we started off. Once at his dorm, he said, "This will do, man. Cheers a lot."
Cheers...a lot? I thought. Did he say, 'Cheers...a lot'?
Because the use I am most familiar with is as closure to written discourse, it was as if he said "Goodbye, a lot" to me. Like when others use the word around me, I reverted to my usual reply: "Uh...okay."

The other term I can not seem to wrap my head around, one that instantly puts me on the defense, is when I am referred to as foreign. Fuck you, I think, I'm not foreign; I'm American.

For Americans, the word foreign has developed a negative connotation: foreigners are shifty, lazy, or dangerous people. Individuals who want to raid our country, stealing our freedoms, and refusing to pay taxes, only to bomb our buildings, insist on their language and practice their strange religions. You can see people tense when a Muslim man approaches the security gates at an airport. Look at that foreigner. He probably will blow this plane up. Great. I will be killed by that foreigner. Or consider the reaction some people have to a large group of Spanish speaking workers. Damn Mexicans; they should learn English or go home.

Unfortunately, I naturally recoil at the word, as if the person across the counter just referred to me as a terrorist. While this man who sold me my DS adapter said:
"Can we take this card, boss?"
"Is that from a foreign bank account? Yeah sure."
I heard:
"This terrorist wants to use his phony money here to purchase our freedom. Should I let him? I don't trust him, and in turn, don't like him..."

Being an "other" is not something I am used to. I am a white, middle-aged man, and thus have received all the benefits that entails. I've never been looked at strangely for my skin color (save the times I used to play with the Spanish band at St. Dominic, but that was far from hostile, and more a curiosity), passed up on a job for my gender, or discriminated against for my age. Hell, I am the average height car manufacturers use to make car seats and calculate interior cabin space. In America, I am quintessentially average. Here, there have been plenty of opportunities to draw attention to my unaverageness.

When I registered, I was asked my ethnicity, and I said, "White." Seems obvious. I'm not black, Asain or Latino (obviously).
"Yes...but what kind?"
Kind? White - non-Hispanic? I thought; the usual answer on the Equal Opportunity forms I fill out for employment or school.
"Ummm," I hesitated, "What are my options?"
There was a list of available white ethnicities I could be that were attached to geographical locations (European, Welsh, British, etc.). There were a veritable plethora of different blacks, whites, Asians, Africans, and Hispanic ethnicities . Then, the dreaded box: "White - Other". For the first time in my life, I was an other. The secretary was hesitant to check it.
"How does it feel," Will chuckled, "to be an other?"

That is still the hardest part about being out here: I categorically don't fit in here. My inability to use "Cheers!" correctly only makes me stand out further. My gut reaction to assault the cashier who refers to me as 'foreign', though, that may earn me a night in the clink.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Inducing Academic Labor

It is official. I have arrived. This afternoon, at 4:00 or so, I officially finished the induction cerimony, which is not nearly as fun as it sounds (and it does not sound all the fun). During the Fall Semester, this is quite the festival, and hundreds of organizations come together for a week long orgy of meetings, coffees/teas, and hand shakes.

The Spring Semester, as I have found, is a far less glamorous semester, and no one seems to know what to do with us. When I was originally scheduled to get here on campus, I received the induction email a good month out from the beginning of the semester. Compartively, it was confirmed that there was an induction cerimony the afternoon of my first full day in Aberystwyth, two weeks ago.

What, you are probably wondering, did you learn?

Very little that I didn't already know. Basically, it amounted to a lot of wait-until-later type of information.

It all began with a brief welcome message from the new Dead of Post Graduate Research. He is not so much new to the position, as the position is new to the University. It seems that one dean for all postgraduates was not enough, so this very pleasant man, a political science lecturer, was suddenly thrust into his role. In his words, "Don't ask me what I do, because I don't really know myself. I'm sort of figuring it out as I go along."

With that auspicious beginning, he handed it off to the President of the Postgraduate Guild. This woman had some notes scrawled on a paper, but it seemed pointless to me. She runs an organization that supports postgraduate students as a student (as opposed to the administrative support staff, which, at times, can have severe conflicts of interest). It seems that their main function is to provide a social output for postgrads, and at this time, she informed us, there was nothing on the calendar. But there would be. Just wait.

She needed notes for that.

Then, the head of the student support department came forward to talk about whole person development. Here is where I started to finally feel good about this choice I made, to pack up my life, leave my loved ones behind, and start anew in The Middle of Nowhere, Wales.

It turns out that The Times Higher Education's Student Satisfaction Survey ranked Aberystwyth #1 in Wales for Student Experience in 2009, and #8 throughout all of the United Kingdom (behind these no name Universities like Oxford and Cambridge). Aberystwyth ranked #1 in Wales for most categories, and #6 across the entire UK (though, when I checked The Times website, they did tie for eighth with four other schools in over all satisfaction (81%), but ranked #46 overall; granted not all categories are listed on that table, but some of them on their are problematic). There was one category not mentioned on the website that I found interesting: Friendliness of Staff and Community. Aberystwyth ranked #1 both in Wales and the UK in this particular category. So generally, despite lacking in some academic categories, Aberystwyth is a surprisingly satisfying University. This leads me to believe that Aberystwyth provides the student body with the resources to be successful, but the student body may not be motivated enough to use them.

That is good: motivation I have in spades.

The Student Support director went on to list all the non-academic activities that the University provides, included adult classes at the Arts Centre (and a cinema) and the Sports Center which provides consuling services and on-call nursing staff dedicated to dealing with the stress of postgraduate work. Unfortunately, the Sports Center cost money, which was one of the nicest parts about SIU, but the fee is minimal, so it would be worth my time.

This was nice, useful information presented in a useful and immediate manner. How unlike the next presenter. Ironically, I needed this person to be useful: this was information about the Research Training Modules that I have to take, and was lead to believe would begin this semester. Turns out they don't, or at least I don't think they do. He handed out the Research Module Handbooks, told us to refer to them for questions, and then spent the rest of his presentation talking about how science PhD's didn't have a particular course set like liberal arts students did (not that I know what that course is, or what it looks like, or when it happens). Evidently, like most other things, I have to wait to find out.

The last presentation of the morning was for the Career Services department. This, I was unprepared for. Here, these people offer free courses and advice designed to get you ready for work; not just in academia, but anywhere. There are presentation skills workshops, CV writing seminars, interview skills training and practice, and then the ability to sit and discuss your plan (they said that, 'a plan' to develop yourself professionally for the market). If I got the gumption up to run a conference here, or through the British Library, they would help me accomplish this goal. Holy hell, I thought these people care about me. I was taken back to my time at SIU, where people talked, often, about professional development. The random "Getting Published" presentation would come our way from the department, but on a whole, I was sorely left to figure things out on my own. Here, in Wales, is an entire department focused on getting me a job; and in this current economic climate, I am grateful for the resources.

After a brief tea and coffee break, another student gave 'helpful' pointers for meeting with our Supervisors (this amounted to: don't be stupid...talk to your supervisor if you have questions). Then, the dean talked a bit about what the supervisor will do for us. Evidently, and here again, I was very surprised, one of my supervisors sole purpose is to make sure that I am developing the right professional skills so that I am successful, and this supervisor will work with the Career Services people to make sure that I am ready for the job field. My other supervisor, my main supervisor, is there to make sure that my thesis gets done. Again, I was shown that my experience matters, and this University will do anything to make sure that I am happy.

Again, that a University cares about what I do once after my money stops coming in seemed like some sort of cruel joke. I feel like, if I try to go to this Career Services department, there would just be a door that opened up to the outside world. Once through the door it would close, and you would be forced to find your way back home, alone. Just like at other schools I have been to.

Then, to make this pie that much sweeter, it seems they have a whole lab, much like the SIUC Writer's Lab, set up for Post Graduates to work out our dissertations. This lab does not hire students, but instead has two professional writer's-in-residence who will sit with you for an hour and try to help you get your head wrapped around this massive undertaking. Whether I want to bounce ideas around or I have a specific section that needs reworking, I can go to these people and they will help me. And again, not my fellow students, but hired professionals.

I was dizzy. For the first time since I embarked on this academia journey, the real world suddenly loomed large and real on the horizon. Crap, I thought, the honeymoon is nearly over. So much for the comforting thought that I could do this forever.

Going in the Right Direction

For some reason I can't quite figure out, I am constantly asked for directions. Maybe I am not asked more than other people, but it seems that, no matter where I go, I have been asked for directions.

It doesn't much matter where I am. The first time I spent unsupervised time in London, 2006, I was walking around Trafalgar Square waiting for Phantom of the Opera to start. On my way through the square I was asked where the Hard Rock Cafe was. Thankfully, I knew where that was, having just walked past it. Here was a British National asking an American in London for directions, essentially, down the street.

Oddly, that trend has not changed. On my extensive journey here, I was stuck looking for the B Terminal in the nightmarish Frankfurt International Airport. According to the map, I was supposed to walk in this one direction, but this was directly contradictory to the signage (which was in German, but I managed to piece together from the large letter B and the arrow in the opposite direction that I was going in the wrong direction). This is stupid, I thought, and looked for someone in an official looking uniform to get directions.
Italic
I took some elementary college German at SIU, so I knew what to say: "Wo ist B?" I asked a man in a day glow vest. "B? Ja, B gibt es. Nehmen Sie die Tram nach B." I got from the hand gestures and pictures he gestured toward that I was supposed to take the Tram to B. Good. On my way.

As I walked, this confused looking woman made purposeful eye contact with me. I knew that look, and from the looks of it, she did not speak English. According to Google Translator, she asked me something like, "Gdje je B?" This, you see, is Croatian. I didn't know it at the time, nor could I pronounce it now, but this Croatian woman was looking for the same terminal I was going to.

Some people might shrug their shoulders and keep walking, feigning ignorance, but I have this bizarre humanist feeling, and knew that this woman needed help. "B?" I asked, trying to inflect my voice to suggest a question. She handed me her itinerary, highlighted to show where she needed to go. She was two gates down at the same terminal. Crap, I thought, how to tell her.

I showed her my ticket, and gestured for her to follow me. We went up the stairs and waited for the Tram. "B," I said, and pointed to the platform. "B," I said and gestured toward the arriving train. "B," I said when it was our turn to get off.

This woman knew two English phrases: "Yes," and "Thank you." She used these profusely, and communicated her finding to her traveling companions. As it turns out, I had to walk past their gate to get to mine, so I managed to hand deliver these woman to their gate, and they seemed very happy to be there before the plane. "Yes," she said, nodding happily, "Thank you."

At Heathrow, it continued. This time, someone stopped me for directions to the Tube station, which I happened to be going towards. I managed to direct him there, and then we worked out how to get to the specific zone he was going towards (something I looked up on-line before arriving, suspecting that this was going to be an issue). This, another British National, made it to his train, and knew which stations to switch at due to my directions.

In Aberystwyth, the trend has also continued. Twice, while at the Sea Front, I was stopped by the same Welshman looking for specific restaurants. I didn't, at the time, know where the McDonalds was (which, is ironic on some level, considering I could name at least four within a ten mile drive of my mothers house). But the second time, I had seen that restaurant while walking to the Sea Front, so I managed to get him where he needed to go.

And again, just this afternoon, a delivery driver flagged me down as I was walking home. He let two other people pass by him before he stopped me, asked me to take my headphones out, and then asked me for directions to Penbryn Halls. I didn't know, but I did have a map, and directed him to the building we were standing in front of. He thanked me profusely, and I continued up the hill wondering why he stopped me, and not the two other people to ask for directions.

So maybe, my dedicated readership, you can answer this question for me: what is it you look for in a person of which you intend to seek direction? Usually, when I ask for directions, I look for two things: maps, or people that wear name tags. Without either of those visible on person, I am flummoxed as to why I am continually stopped for directions. Due to this trend, though, I have tried diligently to know my surroundings quickly so that when it happens, and it will happen, I can say, in my American accent, "Yes...I know where that is," and lead the wayward British person back to where they need to go.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Two Weeks Notice

I was talking with my sister tonight, and after a particularly sarcastic tete-a-tete, she said, "You could just tell me you miss me and not just show it through sarcasm..." While this is generally good advice, I believe I responded: "You're face is sarcastic," or something of that sort.

But, this did get me to thinking: it's been two weeks. I am sufficiently moved in enough where I think I can now make a list of things that I miss. So here goes (in no particular order):

1. American Sports on TV: it's not that I dislike cricket, rugby or soccer (I'll be damned if I call it football until the Superbowl is over); it's that I just don't get it. I am fairly well versed in baseball, basketball, football and to a lesser extent hockey, and, when the occasion arises, I can say things like, "I don't care if Charlie Villanueva does have a messed up hair disease, he is the ugliest man in the NBA." My housemates were talking about that sport where the men run around in little shorts and kick the ball and I had, for the first time in a long time, nothing to contribute to the conversation except,"We call it soccer." They laughed, but I could sense the pity.

2. My cooking gear: I am, by no means, a great cook. I did like to do it, though. And because I tend to go whole-hog with my hobbies, I had some nice stuff: anodized steel Calphalon pots and pans, a sweet Kitchen Aide blender/food processesor combo (crushes ice AND mandolins carrots? Amazing), the Cadillac of toasters. I spent $40 on a grill pan. And coupled with my lack of gadgetry, the kitchen here is good only for breeding diseases. I try not to walk into it without shoes on. I am told the squalor is the result of one of the flatmates, but it really seems to me like a group effort. Granted, I was not the cleanest individual when I had my own kitchen, but at least I knew where the plate of half eaten pasta came from, and better, how long it had been there.

3. My friends (particularly Nick and Erika): When people find out you are going to leave somewhere, possibly for a long time, they tend to get nostalgic and demand to see you. I indulged a good number of these requests, and saw some people I had not seen in a while. I traveled to the far Northern suburbs to see a fraternity brother act in A Christmas Carol; I saw more of Nick in the last month than I had seen of him in the previous six; I rekindled a lost relationship with a close friend who grew distant...it was nice to know that people wanted to see me. I could call Nick up and go shoot some deer, or Erika would come over and play Wii MarioKart with me. Here, I usually spend so much time working, or walking to get things I need, that I rarely see the people I live with. They are generally more surprised to see me than happy.

4. My dog: For four years, Leo had been the only constant in my life. Through five houses, three significant others, and two schools (St. Dominic and SIU), Leo rolled with the punches amazingly well. So long as the food dish was full, he could get a walk at night, and I would from time to time throw him the ball, he was a happy puppy. I grew quite attached to that dog, and seeing other people playing with their dogs here is some sort of weird torture that I was not expecting (and it seems like everyone has a dog). The room is so quiet when there is no fuzzy thing to greet you at the door.

5. $1 dollar = $1 dollar: the math is killing me. The exchange rate, ranges between 1 to 1.4 and 1 to 1.5. So every pound costs me about a dollar and a half. This starts to add up over time. I have been trying to eat out for dinner as much as possible, but a meat pie and chips runs me around four pounds, or six dollars. Tonight, distraught over my bank's inability to electronically wire my money into a British bank, I paid over seven pounds for fish and chips, which sounded like a decent price in my distracted state, until I realized I paid over ten dollars for a fried fish and french fry dinner.

6. My family: I lived with my mom between SIU's graduation, through the deferment and up to the point I flew to London by way of Frankfurt. As lame as that may seem for a 29-year-old man to still be living with his mother, I actually didn't mind it. My mom and I get along, she likes my friends, we went to the movies a lot, and she generally gave me the space I needed. Plus, because my sister was close by, I could go see her and her kids. And Kiernan, Brianne and Jason were always down for some on-line MarioKarting. Like the currency exchange, it requires a lot of math to talk to my family now. Most of the time, they are asleep when I am moving around, then when I am at home, they are at work. Skype has helped some, but its like watching my family on TV.

I don't want it to seem like my time here is spent wishing I was back home, but at this stage of my adjustment, I am becoming keenly aware of the things that are lacking in my life, and that they are going to continue to be lacking from my life for some time. Luckily, all I need to do is throw open the shades and I can see what I have exchanged them for. But like the dollar to pound conversion, it takes a lot of cool Aberystwyth stuff to replace one unit of coolness from the above mentioned items.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Crazy Knights

I feel, more and more, like I live in Rivendell. My house is built into a hill on a ravine. The whole student village is surrounded by an ancient, dense forest. We are constantly beset by orcs and goblins and cave trolls. I was sure I spotted a nazgul riding one of the enormous seagulls that are everywhere.

The external factors are coupled with the language, which has a distinctly Elvish quality to it: compare this video to this video. The two are eerily familiar. At the church I go to, the first reading is always done in Welsh, and, closing my eyes, I picture Liv Tyler (which is not entirely a bad thing).

This morning, after mass, I took a walk through Penglais Forest that lies to the North and West of the Student Village. It makes for a less smoggy walk, and who doesn't like to walk through the forest? This particular forest seems to lend itself to my Tolkien Fantasies. The trees look like they could support entire villages of Wood Elves. I would not be entirely surprised to see the forest moving toward to the student village to exact the revenge for the severe amount of litter that this particular dorm cluster creates.

I bring my iPod with me everywhere, so I am often startled by other walkers, birds and the occasional woodland ground creature. This morning, I was again startled as I came around a bend and to part of the forest where the trees have created a little bit of a clearing. At one end of the small clearing, there was a group of people standing in a sort of circle, one of them on the stump of a tree, holding court. There are all sorts of groups of walkers and hikers around, so this was not immediately surprising. The closer I got, the more surreal the experience became.

The man on the tree had shoulder length blond hair, the front part pulled back into a ponytail. He stood over the rest of them, arms crossed and resting on the hilt of a sword. Is...is that...a sword? I wondered, as I got closer. Tucked behind another tree was a second group of people, standing listlessly, kicking at the dirt, making small talk. And inspecting their spears. Yes. Inspecting replica spears. They kept casting furtive glances at the other group, as if they were waiting for something to happen.

No, I thought, this isn't really happening. The closer I got, the more medieval objects made themselves apparent. Some people had brought helmets. A few of them had matching shields. These four-foot wooden ovals were painted with identical blue fluer-de-lis over a quartered blue and white field. The man who seemed to be in charge wore a light linen tunic secured with a hemp chord at the waist.

From a distance, things will often look more impressive than from up close. At a distance, it was hard to notice that one spearman wore hockey knee pads. Or that a good number of them wore hoodies in an effort to create the feel of a cape. And Nikes. No one had authentic footwear. I guess you can't fault them. It seems that each had spent a lot of effort on one item, trying to create an authentic feel one piece at a time: a really stoic looking helmet, or a gleaming spear coupled with wind pants and green hoodie.

Who I felt bad for was this one lone girl, dressed in jeans, an official Aberystwyth University sweatshirt, and wearing an embarrassed look of someone who clearly compromised her Sunday morning for someone she cares about very deeply. She sat nearby the collected group being lecture to, trying as hard as she could to blend in with the trees.

I, for one, was glad they were there. But, I wanted them to know, these were no mere orcs they were facing. These were Oruk-Hai.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

The Jerk

It turns out I'm a jerk. For some of you, this may not come as a total surprise, but this time I wasn't doing it on purpose.

I was talking to my adviser over tea, and he was asking how I was finding it having lived here now for almost two weeks. Truth is, I like it here. It's big enough that there are places to go, but not so big that I can't walk from one end to the next. This is, really, a perfect town for someone to move to as a new citizen. If I lived somewhere smaller, I might need a car to get to essential places (grocery stores, etc.), and if I lived somewhere much larger, I don't know that I could ever get comfortable.

London, for instance, is a huge city. The city is 659 square miles with seven and a half million citizens, an average of 12,000 people per square mile. That's more than three times the size of Chicago, and 500,000 or so short of New York City. Hell, there are seven million more people in London than all of Wyoming. The chance of getting lost in a strange and foreign place is far more likely in such a massive place. Here, as Will suggested, the worst I might run across are "boys drinking beer on benches."

Because I am American, and because there is a certain stigma about Americans, I have tried to be friendly to all of those I come across. I want my appearance, my mannerisms, so say Hey, we don't all want to bomb other countries. Look: I'm culturally aware and sensitive to the differences of others. I don't say you drive on the wrong side; I say the other side.

I was, I found, not very successful at getting people to notice how friendly I was. Take, for example, the man behind the counter at the closest fish and chips place at the top of the hill. The first time I walked in, I was not sure how things were supposed to work. There was a woman purchasing at the counter, so I figured I would wait until she was done, and address the woman at the register. I looked at the man behind the counter, smiled, and then took in the menu. For advertising itself as a fish and chips place, the menu was quite extensive, featuring a wide range of stuff rolls, sausages and my favorite new culinary item: meat pies. I was perusing the menu and the arranged food items when I heard someone talking. I looked up, and the man behind the counter had obviously said something but was not looking at me. There have been more than a few moments where I am not sure where noises come from, and again I found myself wondering, Did he say something to me? What was it that he said? Should I say bless you?

Trying not to appear rude, I said, "I'm sorry, what?" He looked right at me then with a cold stare as if I may have just slapped him. "Yes, please?" he said in terse clipped words.
"Oh, I can order?"
Nothing.
"Um...okay. Can I get the chicken, leek and bacon meat pie and chips."
He started packaging my order as if he had received his orders in a dream he just remembered, not as if I had just asked him for something. Without looking at me, he mumbled: "Salt and vinegar?"
I did not know, at the time, that was what he said. Just wanting to be done with this place, I said, "Yes. Please."
That was when I saw him dump a copious amount of vinegar and salt on my chips. Holy hell, man, I thought, I don't know that I actually like vinegar on my chips (here read: fries). But by that point, it was too late. I found later that I like it a lot. So much so that I ask for it regularly where ever I go.

This was an odd encounter to me, so I talked to Will about it, making light of how I thought the guy just hated me. This might be true, or, maybe more likely, I pissed him off by my very presence. See: I look people in the eye when I walk into a place so that these people know I am aware of their presence, and to acknowledge that we are sharing a space for a while. Nothing hostile, and often times I smile. Will tells me that I may have inadvertently started a pissing contest. It seems that eye contact here is a signal of hostility.

This explains why no one looks at me anywhere I go. When I sit alone in restaurants, in order to seem more friendly, I smile at the people that walk by my table. Maybe, even, people will ask me what I am reading, and I can make friends. Most people avoid looking at me, no matter how charmingly I try to smile. I figured I must be unapproachable (something I have heard said about me), and I figured I would have to make friends other ways.

On my walk home today, from Constitution Hill (which was marvelous), I noticed that people send out furtive eye contact, looking quickly at you, and then usually quickly back to the ground. This makes passing people in tight locations difficult because no one looks at the others. There is little unspoken communication between the passers-by.

This is going to take some getting used to. Evidently, the feeling about Americans is that they can be overly aggressive, and Will believes this is due to the eye contact. So, despite my best efforts to appear friendly and open, I have totally offended everyone around me. Great.

Friday, January 22, 2010

Easy Come, Easy Go

I am fascinated by the weather. When I graduated from Southern Illinois University, it was struck by a derecho. For days afterwards, I read about these fascinating storms, which are essentially inland hurricanes with tornado like tendencies. It was wild.

Aberystwyth has odd weather patterns. Like Seattle, it rains here almost constantly. I can't think of a time here, in two weeks, when the ground has dried out. This makes for very confused fauna. Most of the good trees have dropped their leaves and prepared for winter, but some of the more upstart bushes and smaller shrubs are still covered in dense foliage. And the grass is green. What sort of self-respecting grass (what little there is) would still be green? When I lived with my mother this past summer it was my duty to mow the lawn, and I prayed every day for a frost to snap the grass out of it's constant growth cycle. With this past winter, the last time I mowed was in November. These people still have to mow, and there is plenty of rain to ensure that they do.

Then there is the issue of snow. It snowed here like crazy for two days. An icy, angry snow that quickly covered the majority of the surfaces, and stuck. I figured snow was going to be the norm for a few months, like any other self-respecting winterized town in the Northern Hemisphere.

A day later, a warm rain came through and melted all the ice and snow. What is this? I thought, We don't have to risk our lives to get to school? What will we talk about?

The oddest thing about the weather here is how strangely warm it it. Sure, we are close to the ocean, so, like San Francisco, it's going to be warmer here than one might expect. But we are really far north, latitudinally. Aberystwyth is 52 degrees 24.9 minutes North, while Chicago, my frame of reference, is 41 degrees 52.2 minutes north. To put that in perspective, to drive north from Chicago to 52 degrees north, you would have to drive through Wisconsin, past Lake Superior, and deep into the Ontario woodlands to the Fort Hope Indian Reservation 64, and then a little further North. The nearest city on the map is approximately 128 miles south, called Nakina. At the time of writing this blog, Nakina was facing temperatures of roughly 20 degrees Farenheit. But it feels more like 10 F. Weather.com suggests that it will be routinely below zero for the next few nights with snow showers on and off. Chicago, to the south, a little more than 10 latitudinal degrees to the south, is at 35 F but expects to drop into the 20's through the week.

Do you know what the weather was like here today: 50. I could have sworn that I slept through the entire winter when I woke this morning. The breeze had a faintly decaying odor that come with the first rains of spring, thawing the world and decomposing the collected leaves from the fall. The sun was warm on the skin. I walked around town and campus without a jacket. It's supposed to dip a bit into the upper thirties before rebounding by the end of next week back into the upper 40s for the weekend.

This, to me, is totally strange. I am north, much further north than where I used to live, and experience has taught me that the further north one goes, the colder it gets (see: the Arctic Circle, North Pole, et al).

But here is what Aberystwyth did get today: fog. When I woke this morning, it was like someone had taken the entire town of Aberystwyth, pushed it up through the ubiquitous cloud cover, and rested it onto of some Cloud-City-meets-the-Jetsons type apparatus. The tops of the hills to the south were visiable, as were some of the roof tops, but the sea and the city itself lay obscured beneath a dense cover of fog. I watched, as the sun rose, and the fog rolled back.

That was neat. I talked about it with my adviser and another PhD student over tea this afternoon, and everyone agreed: that was neat. Then it came back, like something straight out of a Stephen King story. I watched Batman: The Dark Knight after an eventful and exciting day. While enjoying the movie, I looked through the window and saw the fog literally creeping through the Pentra Jane Morgan (the student village). I looked into town to see it, again, totally covered in a think, white blanket of fog. There must have been some sort of soccer/football match in town, because these flood lights were lit, making it seem as if an alien craft had landed, and soon would seek consul with the best and the brightest. Maybe force us to mate around the clock, creating a super intelligent race, I hoped. Then I remembered that my special skill is reading comic books. I would be one of the first killed. After the art historians, finite mathematicians, and feminist theorist.

Neat. I went back to my movie, finished watching Batman sacrifice himself for the betterment of mankind, and looked back out the window. There was city, in all her glory, and totally unfogged. I sat in amazement. Usually, it takes the sun, or some sudden change in the warmth of the air to dispel fog, but here it seems the fog has a mind of its own. It just went away, leaving the clear, cool air and myriad stars above. I closed the window at that. If the fog has become self-aware, there is no hope for us.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Automated Moving Machines

I like cars, especially big, old boats that could hold a number of dead bodies in the trunk. My favorite car that I have ever driven was a baby-blue, sparkly 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (it looked like this but with smaller wheels). As my friend John once said, "You could comfortably tan three people on the hood of your car, rolling them over like hot dogs."

The car needed work. Some of the chrome trim had fallen off, a lot of the undercarriage had started to rust, and the paint job had faded. Regardless, I love it. My mom called it my Gangster Car, and consequently, I was pulled over more in that car than any other car I have owned (tickets for the following: 43 in a 40, excessive left lane usage and failure to signal, one head light -despite it being light out, and a rolling stop in a movie theater parking lot at 11:30 PM on a Tuesday; I think that car drew attention, and obviously, not all of it good). One day, while at Monmouth, it stopped going backwards. It ran fine forwards, but the rear gear slipped or fell off or something. I like cars, but a mechanic I am not.

Since then, I have driven what I consider to be tiny cars: a mid-90's Buick Regal Sport, a late 80's LaSabre, and a 2000 Ford Contour; all of which could be stored neatly in the trunk of my Cutlass.

Now, in Aberystwyth, I am without a car. This is not unusual, and there are a lot of people out walking around at any given time. There are plenty of sidewalks (of sorts) along all the major roads. At times, I might need to cross the street because the buildings run right up to the street, but for the most part, I can find somewhere to walk no matter where I go. Really, a car has not been necessary at all, though I might not agree with that when I am trying to hike it back up the hill to my dorm after walking into town to get supplies. The only time that I become keenly aware of the necessity of a car is when I need to go grocery shopping.

Today, I walked down the hill, through town, and out to the South Western edge where the large department stores are. As I was walking, I started to take notice of the cars around me. I was struck by the almost complete lack of SUVs. In London, I can understand the desire to own smaller cars. Some of the streets in London were built before the idea of cars, and thus are sort of tight. Here, though, there is not such a lack of space. None the less, most of the cars in Aberystwyth are what American's refer to as subcompacts, and almost all of them are hatchbacks.

I also realized I have no idea who makes these cars. There are a smattering of Fords, and a few of the Asian cars (Toyota, Hyundia, Honda, etc.). For the most part, though, I don't recognize any of these car manufacturers. There are Minis (but nothing like the American Mini Coopers), Peugeot, Renault, Vauxhall and Fiats. Even the American makes don't look like it. The more I looked, the more it felt like all of Aberystwyth was inhabited by broke college graduates looking to get the most car for the little buck they had. These weren't cars; these are toys.

What, I found myself wondering, would lead a fully grown man to drive a Mini Cooper? Can he not afford a decent car? There's more room in a SMART CAR!

My journey took me past a used car dealership that was packed full of these clown cars. One section was labeled large family cars, where there were a few sedans. In the week and a half that I have been here, I have seen two SUVs: one Landrover, and one Kia. The biggest car besides that would be a small station wagon that the taxi's prefer to drive. Even the service vehicles, delivery trucks and construction equipment seems to be made for kids playing at being a servicemen, delivery driver or construction worker.

Once home, I couldn't shake my disbelief about the tininess of the cars. As I looked out my window, the sun setting towards the sea, and the sky was a pleasant shade of blue, I started to see the advantage of the smaller, fuel efficient cars. Granted, if I drove a Vauxhall Corsa I couldn't buy an entire furniture set and drive it home with me (something I saw an elderly couple trying to figure out the logistics of), but at least the sky wouldn't be a sickly orange color at night.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Rise and Shine

I am, by no means, a morning person. When I lived by myself, I would set my alarm for an entire hour before I need to get up, so that I can hit the snooze for an hour, slowly moving from Dreamland to the harsh bright lights of reality. Because this is the way I tend to wake up, I am not very good in the morning. Some people claim they are not good until they get their coffee; I am not good until the sun has crested the sky. I could get up at 6:00 am, but I would still be groggy and slow moving until around noon. For some reason, my mind is slow moving until around that time.
During this time, though, it should be noted that I am very amicable. In an effort to get back to sleep, I will agree to almost anything. Anything to get back to sleep.

This morning, however, such a luxury was not afforded to me. At 9:00 am, a decent time in the morning for most, I had already woken, moved around and fallen back to sleep twice by this point. I wasn't quite asleep, but a far cry from complete consciousness. Then, suddenly and without warning, the red bell above my door started ringing, loudly. I shot up at the noise, and before I could locate it, the sound stopped.

What the hell was that, I thought. I can sleep through anything, so for a noise to wake me up it needs to be loud and jarring. The phone ringing, a neighbors alarm, the doorbell: none of these things are loud enough, so instantly I assumed catastrophe. The house must be on fire. From waking to settling on my imminent death by fire took about ten minutes. It's probably best I am not a fireman.

I stumbled over to the window, and shifted the curtain slightly. The outside was gray as usual, but certainly no commotion. I stood, looking outside in a daze for a minute of two. Your house is on fire, my rational mind kept screaming, but my sleep addled mind was looking for a good reason to put shoes on. I don't see any fire trucks or other people outside, so it must not be so bad.

I stood for a minute in the center of the room, and, like a shock, doubt crept in. Did I hear a noise? Was that a dream? Is this a dream? I stood stock still in the middle of the room trying to piece together how I had gotten from the bed to here. What do I know that is true: I heard a noise. Or rather, I think I heard a noise. What noise was it? Loud. Maybe. Or was that a dream?

Because I am alone in my room there was no one to bounce these questions off. At this moment, I became aware of the noises of my house mates moving around the house. Slowly, a conundrum arose: Do I ask my housemates if there was a noise? If they say yes, we can all joke about what a weird occurrence that was. If they say no, I will look insane which could be bad for all of America.
"Do you remember that American that lived upstairs?"
"Oh yeah, the crazy one who heard alarm bells in the morning."
"Yeah, well there is a new one upstairs."
"Damn it. Do you think he hears phantom noises, too?"

I decided, after some debate, to die in my room. If I did nothing, I could live forever, and no one would have to either confirm nor deny the noise that shook me awake. I might also die. But at least no one would think I am crazy. So, it was about 10:00 now, and I laid back in my bed, reading Superheroes: A Modern Mythology and waited for the flames to engulf my room.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

College Days

I have been in and out of school for the last 24 years. In fact, all but four of those years have been spent in one academic setting or another. This has given me a perspective of the world frozen in time. I have had little experience with the world outside the walls of academia, having only spent four of them there, three of which were spent as a junior high teacher. Slowly, though, I have been catching up with the rest of my age group: realizing what it would take to buy a car, apply for a home loan, considering the burden of children and so on. Granted, most of my friends have babies, and several have started cultivating veritable broods.

Then I moved in Pentra Jane Morgan, House 100 D. Suddenly, I was taken for the world of adult academics and thrust, head first and unknowingly, back 11 years to when I was a first year. All my housemates, save one, are second semester first year students. None, then, can be much older than 19. Consequently, they are given to 19 year old urges: staying up at all hours of the night talking, dirty jokes spoken in the company of strangers, loud music, and general shenanigans. I know that this paints me in an curmudgeonly light, but I am painfully aware of how annoying I must have been at that age.

Last night, the house went quiet at about 10:00 pm, which I thought was nice. The weekend had bought some loud annoyance deep into the wee hours, and I was beginning to think that I could not get the work I needed done in this environment. But, Monday brought what I assumed was the calm of studying to the house. Until 11:45, when the housemates all seemed to run into each other in the communal kitchen located directly below my bedroom.

There they talked and joked and laughed into the morning, and then, inexplicably, it sounded like they were throwing crockery at each other. My God, I thought, was I like this?

And then I remembered that I was. My freshman year a couple friends of mine jumped me in the hallway of our dorm, dousing me with water guns. I had thought this might happen, so I booked it to my room where my two gallon Super Soaker Canon lay waiting. The two and a half foot barrel could launch a water spray up to 100 feet. We soaked that entire floor of the dorm, ruining people's door decorations and flooding some people's rooms.

Later, when I had joined a fraternity, we would constantly get into fights with the neighbors across the street. At one point they had called and asked, probably very much within their own right, that we turn the music down. I remember dragging the lounge speakers, huge cabinets with a two 15" woofers and a bunch of tweeters, into all the rooms that pointed his house and blasting Rage Against the Machine's "Killing in the Name of..." The refrain goes as follows:

Fuck you, I won't do what you tell me!
Fuck you, I won't do what you tell me!
Fuck you, I won't do what you tell me!
and so on.

We shot potato canons at passing cars, ran through campus in our underwear (several times), stole toilet paper from the dorms and library, and, when it was warm out, moved our furniture out onto the lawn, taking the party with us. One brother in the fraternity stole an entire collection of poles from a golf course (all 18 holes). He then had 18 huge poles in his room, and wasn't quite sure what he was going to do with them.

That's what college is for: being annoying. These kids are learning what it is to live with other people. I never would have blasted my music at my mother if she asked me to turn it down. I might not turn it down happily, but I wouldn't retaliate so passive aggressively. Right now, they are just figuring out that they can stay up and talk as loudly as they want to. They need that experience, so I need to find a way to cope with it. That, and I don't want to give them a force to band against.

So, I rolled over, grabbed my book, and continued reading about the birth of Superman and American superhero comic books. I wondered, as I started to fall asleep, if I could send an apology letter to those neighbors.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

New Houses

Sometime around the end of my junior high years or early high school years, Bolingbrook, IL, took the initiative to designate part of the town as the Historic District. For those living there, the Historic District runs South of Rockhurst to the Highway, and West from around Pinecrest to the Library. The signs were changed from white to brown, markers were put up - Bolingbrook was taking pride in it's past.

The sign reads, as you turn into the Westbury subdivision: "Westbury Subdivision: Historic District of Bolingbrook. Established 1960."

That is no typo: Bolingbrook's first subdivision, complete with post office and site for the library, was finished settled in 1960. There are people living in Bolingbrook older than that subdivision, which lead to me to wonder if these people should be forced to wear brown shirts with their birthdate printed on it. This way the locals can pay the appropriate respect.

America has an odd sense of history. Depending on which stories you believe, 1492 is really the beginning of the time for this country as it looks now. Granted, the Native Americans crossed the land bridge years before, there are rumors that the Chinese and Vikings had made it here between the Native Americans and Columbus, but really (and in some ways unfortunately), these traces have all been wiped away. The Native Americans were a mostly transient civilization, meaning that there were hardly any ancient subdivisions we had to sweep away when the settlers began to clear the way for their subdivisions. This leaves the oldest buildings on the continent dated around the early 1500s, and there are not many of them.

Couple that with the American Revolutionary War. After that, America finally could set up it's own history, in the late 1770s. So really, America has a history of about 300 years or so.

You can imagine then what it is like to see a castle. I have seen castles before: drive north on I-90, and just past Ikea there stands Medieval Times. This castle serves meals three times daily, and comes with jousters.

In the middle of Aberystwyth sits the ruins of a castle that once stood watch over the coast. The castle is exactly that: ruined. There are no complete walls, and just bits and pieces strew the grassy hill. That said, it is one of the most impressive structures I have ever seen. Without the modern building technology we have today, these people put together a structure that still stands 800 years later. Some suggest that early fortifications might date back as far as 800 BC, but this particular ruins remain from a castle built in the 1200s AD.

This particular structure has stood on this particular spot for the entire length of the European settlements, and all of American History, plus an extra 200 years. Granted, it had fallen into disrepair as of late, but still, people did something, and part of it still remains. It was humbling to see a symbol of the enduring nature of mankind.

At least, I found it humbling. The Welsh civilians, I found, did not care so much for these ruins. First, there was trash everywhere. Cans of energy drinks, wrappers from sandwiches, Styrofoam containers and cigarette boxes littered the grounds. My mother and brother have both worked in various capacities for historic sites around the US, and I could imagine seeing their faces.

The people seemed to treat the ruins in a way I found surprisingly. I walked between the various wall parts with a hushed awe, lightly brushing the walls with soft fingertips. As I was examining a collapsed staircase, marveling that the stairs were still mostly intact, I noticed two kids using a piece smaller piece of the wall as a jungle gym, clamoring over the ruins, kicking ancient stones into the grass. It's not hard to see that the more use something receives, the more wear it suffers. These kids were doing irreparable damage to a piece of national history, national pride. Another group of teenagers stood smoking in a turret, scratching their names into the rock face. In some places, people had spray painted parts of the walls with band names, and phallic symbols.

I was stunned. As a child, my family toured hundreds (possibly thousands) of battlefields and historic encampments and settlements across the Eastern United States. We spent countless hours in the hot summer sun, boiling alive in these fields, imagining the history taking place. Young soldiers marching to certain death, new cities springing up with great anticipation for the future, people living their lives here perfectly preserved. My mother used to work for Naper Settlement, one of the oldest settlements in Northern Illinois. They have moved houses from around the area into one central location. There are places that people are not allowed to tour because the artifacts are too valuable. Most of the pieces at this place date back to the 19th century, roughly two hundred years old. Certainly, no one would be able to scamper up the walls and across the roof of the building, nor would anyone be allowed to carve their name into a house.

I wondered how these Welsh kids could not see this the way I saw it. This is really old! I screamed in my mind. Get your damn kids off the wall! Could the not see the history? Could they not understand what it means that something would still be standing on this exact spot for the better part of a millennium?

Probably because this site has stood for so long that the Welsh take it for granted. It has been there, and will always be there, as far as they can see. This has been part of the landscape for longer than anyone can remember. They no longer see it as a representation of their lineage, as a testament to human ingenuity. It's just an old bunch of rocks. There are others, better kept.

Its not unlike when moving into a new house. At first, you are careful of the walls, afraid to chip the new paint, or dent the drywall. After a few years, a scratch here, a ding here, and suddenly you are hammering nails into the wall without regard. The Welsh have lived in this house for a lot longer than Americans have lived in the house that is America. We still take our shoes off so as to not damage the pile of the carpet, but that is a concern long past for the Welsh.

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Food for Thought

All my life, I have been a picky eater. This, in part, is due to the tragically weak stomach my family seems to carry in it's gene pool. Too much flavor, and I suffer through a night of what my Dad gracefully called "The Trots," because one needed to trot to the bathroom, not walk.

However, here in Wales I decided that it was time for a new Keegan, a less picky Keegan that would eat whatever was out there, drink what other people were having, and experience the culinary excellence of the Welsh countryside. That, and I sometimes have a hard time understanding what people say. This is how I had a chick-pea curry.

After Will and I went to my dorm room, he took me to eat at the Arts Center here on Campus. Incidentally, until last night, I had eaten all my meals there. It's a nice place with a decent view and what I considered to be cheap food. I was in line before a series of dishes that all featured unrecognizable food parts. Huge heaping red and yellow casseroles. Was that a pepper? Carrot? Maybe a hunk of sausage? I stood dazed, and decided to start simple: with the white rice. I reached for the spoon, and started to root around the bowl when a nice woman asked me what we would like.

Will was there, looking sort of embarrassed for me, and order what I thought was chicken curry. I ordered the same, hoping to get away from the suspicious stare of the server. At the table, I noticed there was no chicken, but instead a heap of tiny white balls, some red peppers and a few other unrecognizable vegetables. Thanks to my obsession with The Food Network and Alton Brown's show Good eats, I knew that chickpeas, which usually are ground up into hummus, are also known as garbanzo beans; beans, for those with weak digestive systems, are usually blacklisted for their gas inducing effects. At this point, I didn't know my house mates, and I did not feel like introducing myself by way of the horrible noises coming from the bathroom (and, I wasn't really sure where said bathroom was). After all, you can only make one first impression.

I sat staring at it for a moment, and maybe because of my sleep deprived state (I had, after all, not slept since the previous afternoon), I just started eating. Honestly, it was not bad. Not particularly good, either, but not bad. It had a gritty, earthy taste not unlike eating spicy dirt. But nothing to sneeze at.

That night, there were no adverse affects, or at least none that woke me up, and the next morning, I made the decision to just eat whatever other people suggested. I have since had, and mind you, all at the Arts Center cafe, a Welsh beef with mint sauce and salad sandwich, a turkey with cranberry sauce and salad sandwich, chicken (this time, actually chicken) casserole, and my first experience with British tea.

Again, because of my weak stomach, I don't often tend to drink hot drinks. When I was working three jobs the summer between Freshman and Sophomore year, I developed acid reflux, which is both painful and disgusting. My doctor blacklisted most teas and coffees. But that was years ago, and really, when else would I get to drink tea with real British people.

I was having tea with my Second Supervisor, Pete Barry. He is an older academic, but despite his old-school attitudes towards studies, he was surprisingly well-versed in the contemporary fields of literary criticism. His recent work included a lecture tour on his think-piece about visual poetry. Suffice it to say, we hit it off well.

He took me, again, to the Arts Center, and asked what I wanted, noting the cold beverages, the coffees, and what not. I almost reached for an old standby, Coke-a-Cola, but decided that my new found attitude towards food was nagging me to try the tea. Peter ordered two and I mimicked everything he did. I added milk, a few sugars, stirred the thing, pulled out the tea-bag (which is a phrase that still, elicits a sophomoric giggle) and followed him upstairs.

English tea is sort of bitter and tasteless really. The milk and sugar did little to change that, but all in all, it was a delightful experience, and for one I really felt that I belonged to this subculture I was part of. There I was, taking afternoon tea, discussing books and travel; I had, I felt, arrived.

With that experience safely tucked under my belt, I decided to go into town and eat dinner. Most of this stuff I do by myself because I don't really know anyone yet. I met a few graduate students, and I now know of my housemates, but I don't really feel comfortable asking strangers to go eat with me. So, at about six-thirty, I gathered my things, and wandered down the hill into town.

Here's something I learned on my walk: the Welsh close up at 6:00 PM. The entire town was dark, though, oddly, there were people walking around with purpose. I followed a long train of students and locals down the hill from the University into the town center where people seemed to just mill about. All the stores were closed. Most of the restaurants were closing. I was worried that I might have to scrounge a meal out of the nearby vending machine when I noticed Grill's Fish and Chips Take Away and Restaurant at the end of the main road.

Situated on the beach, Grill's (or it might have been called The Blue Dolphin...it was hard to tell) had a nautical theme. I walked in, and was instantly confused. For one, there was no one there. Secondly, the two people working behind the counter seemed not to notice that I had come in. I found the menu mounted to the wall, and the woman behind the counter asked me if I was okay. I'm sure she meant something along the lines of, "Are you ready to order," but she might have noticed my stunned look, and actually wondered if I were okay.

Usually, when I am just standing there, I don't get too many odd looks. I am white, a little taller than the average Welshman, but really, little separates our appearances. However, the moment I open my mouth, people begin to treat me differently. This has made me extremely self-conscious about my speech patterns and vocal mannerisms.

"Yes," I started, trying to scramble and buy more time. I realized, no matter how much time I had, I was still going to be confused, so I sucked up my pride, turned to the nice woman behind the counter, and said, "Actually, no. How does this work?"
"Excuse me?"
"What do I do? I've never been to a place like this."
She picked up my accent, smiled broadly and said, "Okay, then. Have a look. See anything ya' fancy?"
I looked at a list of what I considered to be ingredients (meat, fish, potatoes) and was again confused. Time was running short, and I was worried a line might form behind me, so I asked what was good. The woman behind the counter reacted as if she had never been asked this question before. After some consultation with the line cook, they suggested the cod and chips, traditional British fish-and-chips. Again, my initial reaction was to reject the offer for fish. If you brought a fish dish to a family party with my relatives, you would be forced to walk home, carrying your shame in the ceramic dish you brought with you. But, again, I figured why not. The woman instructed me down the line, gave me my Coke, and a tray and told me to sit where I like. She even offered me reading material, seeing I was alone.

I took a booth in a back corner where I could observe the rest of the crowd, which was just me for most of the time. Eventually, a family came in, and also struggled with the ordering process (despite being nationalized). When my meal came out, there was a long filet, heavily breaded and deep-fried served with some huge, square French Fries (which I will now have to call chips). I cut into the filet and saw the flaky white contents spill out onto the plate. I took a deep breath, and before I could realize what was going on, I took a bite.

It was really good. It did not taste like fish that I was used to, though fish in Illinois has always been suspect to me. That is a landlocked state, and the fish that are caught in Lake Michigan are hardly edible. I was surprised by this light, slightly lemony flavor. The chips were good, too. I cleared my plate, wiped my mouth, and was thoroughly satisfied.

Friday, January 15, 2010

Planes, Trains and Automobiles

Planes are interesting places. A large group of diverse individuals pile into one small place, sit squished together, and all hope that this mystical flying machine doesn't fall from the sky, and instead deposits us in the same place, safe and sound. An entire group with the same intentions: get from A to B safely.

Transcontinental flights bring an entirely more diverse crowd than the four-times daily flight from Chicago to St. Louis. There were a variety of people waiting to get on the plane: German's heading home, military folk on the way to assignment, other various Europeans on the first leg of a longer journey, and this one family from Texas who obviously hated their child. Here he was dressed in sleeping pants riddled with every pro-football team, cowboy boots, a puffy jacket and a child-sized stetson. I'm fairly certain that hat counted as a carry-on item. Hopefully, when he is still dressing like that as an unpopular adult, some sweet woman will gather him up from whatever rodeo he is clowning for, take him home, and show him what outside clothes really look like.

I had the unfortunate circumstance of sitting in the back of the economy cabin, in the middle seat of the five-person row. On my left was a tall black man on his way home to Germany to resume his work with the military. On my right was an old Frenchman who was, I am sure, dying of something highly contagious. When I first took my seat, just the black man was there, and a purse on my right, or rather, what I assumed was a purse. A small, black, patent-leather, faux snake skin shoulder bag = purse as far as I am concerned (this coming from the proud wearer of a murse). Imagine my surprise when this elderly man, wearing a stocking hat on the already boiling plane, took up his purse, and took his seat.

From the very beginning, I knew that the black man on my left and I were going to get a long just fine. He was really courteous, probably to a fault, as he didn't crush the annoying Floridian who got on the plane talking loudly about how she hates sitting next to people on airplanes. She complained from take-off to landing. He smiled and joked with her, while I turned my iPod up, to drown out the asininity.

The Frenchman spoke only French and ignored my presence. It was if he imagined himself alone in the airplane: he never covered his mouth as he coughed and hacked up phlegm, he stretched into my seat, took up the entire arm rest, and snored really loudly. I took all of this with a grain of salt, after all, he was French. But when his legs started to encroach my limited leg room, I grew hostile.

For those of you who don't remember much about me: I am all legs. My hips connect just under my shoulders. Usually, I have to sit sideways in the seat, with my back pressed against the seatback, just so my legs fit in the aisle. And this man wanted some of that precious space. Granted it was my fault: I hate when I touch strangers, especially when my leg is pressed against the leg of a stranger. So each time his would fall heavily against mine, I would shift to the left until his knee was under my tray table. Finally, I raised up my tray table, and his leg fell into the vacancy, as his entire body seemed want to do. Then, none to gently, I dropped my tray table on his knee. If it bothered him, he didn't show it, but he did move out of my space, allocating precious inches to me. I repeated this twice more throughout the flight until we landed in Frankfurt.

From there, I walked what I assume was a mile through Frankfurt International Airport while it is presently under construction. Rarely have I felt the sheer terror that must go through the mind of a lab rat in a maze. I had limited time to get from one end to the next, and the signs all warned of lengthy stays at security check-points and passport services. Getting from one terminal to the other would have been a difficult task had all the signs been in just English, and had there been a series of personalized light-up arrows peppering the floor and walls. As it was, most signs in big German lettering with smaller English lettering, and horribly misleading signage, I made it to the plane with enough time to buy 8 euros worth of minutes on the T-Mobile hot spot, use one of them to tell my mother I landed, and then run onto the plane. Or, rather, what I thought was the plane.

Instead, I boarded a bus, squeezed on with several Germans, a few British and a smattering of American military folk. We were driven across active tarmacs, between planes landing (a little too closely, I thought) to our tiny Airbus plane on waiting for us on the runway. I was in the last row of the airplane with a window seat. The man in the middle, some German business man who checked no bags, carried on no bags, and wore an expensive suit (but still rode economy) moved to an open seat once the plane doors were sealed. On the outside of my row sat an American jet pilot on his way to the Finland from Dubai (a city known for building it's own island that looks like the bones of a fish). He was on leave, and was going to have, and I wondered how he found flying in a jet under someone else's control. He smiled, and walked away, uninterested in my stupid questions.

Heathrow International Airport was just as under construction as Frankfurt, so I was again forced to walk for miles until I could get my bags. This made me slightly cranky, but I was satiated by the sight of my bags present on the belt. I changed over some cash I had into pounds, took my bags and went to find the tube.

It was on the tube that I realized two things concurrently: 1) I was riding London's main mode of public transportation through the heart of the city at 8:30 in the morning with all my luggage; 2) my bag, packed full of my underwear, had split a seam. Taken one at a time, I might not have wanted to cry, but seeing as both were true I was suddenly struck by how bad an idea this was.

Had I been riding the Blue Line inbound and a family of Spanish tourist climbed on with all their luggage, taking up valuable commuter space, I would have been at the front of the line of people dismembering their corpses. Thankfully, like their signage, the British are far more concerned with etiquette and I escaped the hour long tube ride with only a few harsh stares and head-shakes. I transferred from the Victoria line at Leicester Square (pronounced, I believe: Lester, which didn't seem right, so I almost didn't get off). A short trip there dropped me at Euston Street train station where I was to catch a Virgin Train (named after the Virgin company, not because the British made some assumptions about my sexual exploits) to Birmingham-New Street.

The National Trains are, while expensive, super well maintained. It was a two hour train trip through a surprisingly snow covered English country side to Birmingham and one of the two conductors, who I thought was wearing a robe, came through four times for trash. Having ridden the Amtrak train to Monmouth and Carbondale, I never recalled such treatment for public space. In fact, I would not be surprised to see the conductors creating as much trash as the riders.

At Birmingham-New Street, the problem with my bag became problematic. The tiny rip of no more than a few inches had expanded to the entire length of the bag. There for anyone to see, was my underwear (not all of which I am proud to own as an almost 30 year old man). I rigged that bag to lay on top of the other, and hurried to the train to Aberystwyth.

This was an Arriva train that made stops at several small towns along the way. Most of the ride was generally like Ohio: slight, rolling hills; large, mostly unpopulated fields; lots of sheep. But unlike in Ohio, there was, thankfully, no Welsh equivalent of Cleveland or Cincinnati.

As we neared some town that had 34 consonants in the name and two vowels, sounding not unlike one of Tolkien's elves sneezing, the landscape suddenly changed. Hurriedly, mountains (well, I consider them mountains, because I'm from Illinois) shot out of the ground. It really seemed like the ground was desperate to get as high as possible because the field would run flat for some distance, and then suddenly turn abruptly upward, raising to a few hundred feet above sea level, and then dropping off and heading sharply back towards the ground level. It was like nothing I had seen before.

On the four hour journey from Birmingham-New Street, the Welsh packed onto the train, some heading back to work, others seemingly heading to nowhere. Our train would stop between two fields, and a handful of weather-worn Welsh would sternly pile off the train, as if to say, "It's not much to look at but it's home." There was literally not much to look at.

At the train station in Aberystwyth, I had some time to wait until Will, my supervisor, could collect me and drop me at my dorm, and maybe take me to eat. While I waited, I noticed a second hand shop attached to the train station, filled with luggage. Have you seen that part of Big Fish where young Ed Bloom wanders through the forest to find the lost city, and hanging from the one power line is a bunch of shoes. Ed Bloom is left to wonder where all the shoes came from. I sat with my back to the wall, making sure that I was not murdered, all my stuff sold remarkable close to the crime scene.

When Will picked me up, we tossed my stuff in the taxi, and made our way to the Accommodations Office on campus, which the taxi driver, oddly enough, knew about. There, the security guard seemed perplexed that I wanted keys to my room, and gave me a look that said, "I know nothing is behind me, but I will look anyways, because I like being right." I know that look; I've worked retail: "Do you have any books on Buddhist migrant workers in Mexico?" "No." "Are you sure?" "Let me look..."

Thankfully, my keys were there, and Will and I tried to find the footpath across. I tried, in vain, to carry my 50lb bag like one carries a child, so that my underwear would stay securely in the bag. Eventually, I was forced to set it down, checking bag periodically to make sure all my stuff made it to the room. Will rolled with this remarkably well.

Despite doing his graduate work at Aberystwyth, graduating in 2002, and living not to far from Campus, Will and I got lost trying to get up the hill across the footpath and to my dorm. As he said, "I had meant to better learn the campus..." We walked through a small patch of trees, got sidetracked by a barbed-wire fence, and eventually, by the grace of God alone, found the footpath.

After a brief meal, and some shopping, Will left me to my room. I made the bed with my new sheets and comforter, and sat to recollect the evening. My thoughts went like this: "That was a long trip. I wonder..."

The rest was darkness. I left my house at 2:34 PM CST. My first time to sleep was at 7:00 PM GMT. Suffice it to say, I slept very well that night, and well into the morning.

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

The beginning.

Recently, I was accepted to the Aberystwyth University (formerly the University of Wales - Aberystwyth). After some issues with entry visas and funding, and a brief deferment, I was finally set and ready to go. Beside being academically challenging, this was going to be an experience that I have been looking forward to since I briefly visited London and other European cities in high school as an Illinois Ambassador of Music. On that trip, I told myself that I would live abroad for a time, and here I am.

But, before the adventure could start, I needed to get to Aberystwyth - a feat not altogether easy. Because this was not just a small vacation, or even a large vacation, packing for this trip was an exercise in minimalism: I combed through my clothes making decisions on what was immediately necessary, and what I could do without. It was not simply a question of how many sleeping pants I would need, but a more inherently philosophical question: do I need sleeping pants? T-shirts that could be worn either as just a t-shirt of under a sweater became quite invaluable. The rest of what I thought I needed, I packed in boxes to be sent here by freight, but these would not arrive for close to two months (along with my books). So I crammed my suitcases as full as I physically could.

My mom drove me to the airport at 12:00 pm, Monday January 11th. The flight would not take off for another two hours, but with recent security problems and foiled terrorist attacks, I left with enough time to clear the several security gates separating me from the plane. This was invaluable time, as I used almost every second to get from the entrance to the plane.

A word of warning to those traveling: a one-way ticket to a foreign country raises eye-brows. A lot of eyebrows. It started at ticket counter where I needed to pick up my boarding pass. At first I got in the international flight line, but that was only for people who had electronically purchased round trip tickets to international destinations. Once at the kiosk I was sent to a different line where I was grilled by the woman at the counter:
"Where are you going?"
"Frankfurt."
"When are you coming back?"
"I don't know."
"You don't know?"
"No. I am going to school, and I might be there some time before I can come back."
"You are coming back?"
"I think so, but not for some time."
"So, you are just going to Frankfurt?"
"Well, initially. Then to London."
"When are you coming back from London?"
...
And so on.

I raise eyebrows a lot when I travel. I guess I look suspicious, or maybe all single men are pulled aside, and have their luggage opened as a large man none-to-gently rubs him down. This happened at every security check-point. The first one was pretty standard. The woman wanded me, and sent me through. At the gate, I was "randomly" checked again. This time, the man gruffly asked me to step out of line while he could conduct his search. Two other people went through my carry-on and a third held my ticket and passport. The man rubbed me down, literally wrapping his huge hands around my arms and rubbing from the shoulder to the wrist. He tried to act as cordially as possible, but it's hard to carry on a decent conversation with someone who is violating your personal space.
"Where you going?"
"Frankfurt."
"Oh. It's nice there. Can you turn and spread your legs?"

After that rough treatment, we boarded the plane. The excitement continued there, but that will be a story for next time.